Raspberry Pi Pico 2 Breakout Enclosure (v1)

Description

This enclosure is built around one specific pairing: a Raspberry Pi Pico 2 plugged into a Pi Pico screw-terminal breakout board (78 × 57 mm, 2×20 terminals plus a 3-pin SWD block). The walls print solid, with thin-skin knockouts you cut out from inside only where you need a wire or a cable gland. The rest stays closed.

I printed and test-fit it on my Bambu Lab A1 before posting it. The Pico 2 and breakout sit on the built-in standoffs, and every terminal is reachable with the lid off. The micro-USB opening lines up with the Pico's port, so you can program and power it with the lid on, using a slim micro-USB cable. A PG7 gland fits the SWD-end knockout, but it's tight: the locknut clears the breakout by only about 2–3 mm and sits in front of the SWD block's wire entries, so wire that block first or put the gland in a long wall. I haven't tested a gland in a long wall yet; check that your gland's inside thread plus locknut is under about 6 mm.

It prints as two parts (base and lid) with no supports. The OpenSCAD source is included if you want to change things.

Features

• Thin-skin knockouts that look like solid wall until you cut one out:
  • Each long wall has one PG7 (12.5 mm) round between two 10 × 6 mm slots.
  • The SWD end has one PG7 between two 5 mm rounds.
• A 12 × 9 mm micro-USB opening lined up with the Pico's port. Use a slim-body cable; bulky or right-angle plugs may not reach.
• Four break-off mounting tabs for #6–#8 screws (4.3 mm holes), with score grooves so you can snap off the ones you don't need.
• Two sealed floor keyhole slots for #6–#8 pan-head screws.
• A 4 mm screw-down lid with counterbored corner holes and a locating lip.
• Parametric OpenSCAD source with Customizer options for mounting and wire exits (zip-tie tunnels, magnet pockets and a cable clamp are off by default). It needs OpenSCAD 2021.01 or newer.

Tip: an X-Acto #104 concave carving blade opens the knockouts cleanly.